Aged and unwanted
As the president of Save a Horse Australia Horse Rescue and
Sanctuary we have seen many aged horses come through our gates. Most of these
aged equines end up as residence of SAHA due to being surrendered by their
current owners for a number of reasons including the inability to care for the
animal, the animal is no longer of use to them or simply a change in
circumstances. Throughout the years many of the aged horses surrendered have
been in poor condition and some have been chronically emaciated. Sadly, we have
had to limit the intake of aged rescue horses into our sanctuary for one main
reason – They are almost impossible to re-home. A horse’s life span is normally
between 25 -30 years depending on each horses breed and history so when we get
horses come in which are in their late 20’s we really do struggle to find them
forever homes because potential adopters don’t want to adopt a horse that could
incur in vet costs or because the horses life is only limited to a few extra
years. For this reason we have been left with many retired aged horses that
live out their days with us either at our sanctuary or in foster care until
their day comes to be euthanized. This is a very sad reality and I have always
lived by the belief that every animal deserves a quality retirement but sadly
not every animal will get one.
Save A Horse Australia has always had an open door policy,
meaning if we have room, we say yes to an equine in need no matter what its
issues or age but we became a dumping ground of people wanting to be rid of
their aged horse’s and with them being almost impossible to rehome we have had
to limit the amount of aged horses we will accept. So what should people do
with their aged horses?
1.
You
should provide them with the correct care. If you have had your horse for
many years you need to understand that like old people old horses needs change.
There digestive system changes after 15 years old so you need to change their
diet and add extra vitamins and supplements to make sure they are getting
everything that they need. There is no
excuse for an emaciated aged horse if you are feeding them the correct food and
the correct amount. A horse can live well into his late 20’s fat and healthy if
looked after properly. I have been using Mitavite Gumnuts for years with great
success in weight gain and maintaining a healthy aged horse. Aged horses also
need extra vitamin B and C which is best supplemented naturally. Rosehip is an
excellent source of Vitamin C and Brewers Yeast is an excellent source of
Vitamin B. Aged horses could also befit from a good quality joint supplement.
If it looks like your aged horse is dropping weigh than consult a vet to have a
health / dental check done and increase the amount of food you are feeding.
Consult a professional for some dietary advice if needed and never rely on the
advice given by produce stores workers – they are not professionals in equine
dietary needs.
If you have a fat healthy aged horse and
your circumstances change resulting in you needing to find him a new home than
you will have more luck selling him in healthy condition so make the decision
before it gets to the point that he is losing weight or becoming ill.
2. Rehoming. I understand that
circumstances change and that people might not be able to continuing to care
for their horse so it’s important to make the decision to rehome your horse
long before it becomes neglected. 99% of the neglect cases I have dealt with
have been from people who loved their horse and kept hold of it for longer than
they should have without providing it with the basic care. If you have a change
in circumstance it’s very important to put your emotions aside and do what’s
best for the animal. I have had so many cases of aged horses surrendered to
late where if something had of been done in the beginning the situation would
have ended differently. It’s important to think of the horse and what it needs
above your own emotions and heart break.
3. Euthanasia. One of the hardest
decisions you will ever have to make is the decision to end your pet’s life, I think
this is another main reason why we have so many aged horses surrendered. It’s
easier for someone else to make that decision for you. Making the decision to
euthanize is a part of pet ownership and something that every pet owner should
take responsibility for. Horses are no different from people – they develop
arthritis, debilitating joint disease, heart murmur’s, organ failure, cancers
and the like. It is important to know when it’s time for your horse to be
euthanized so that you can make that decision rather than surrendering your
horse to a rescue organisation where they will only have to euthanasia anyway.
Consulting your vet for a health check and advice is always a good start and if
your old horse is struggling with chronic arthritis, chronic lameness or any
other old age debilitation than you need to consider euthanasia.
4. Cost. Caring for your aged horse
correctly right through to providing euthanasia can be a costly exercise but
one that you need to consider when owning a horse. Horses should not be a
commodity used for our pleasure then tossed away like trash when they become too
old for us to use. They are a pet, a living animal that has provided us with
love and loyalty while we have owned them, therefore as part of the
responsibility of owning a horse you must consider its care in retirement. We
wouldn’t throw away our family when they become old and we shouldn’t throw away
our horses either. If you are worried about the medical cost than get equine
medical insurance, and the cost of feeding an aged horses isn’t any more
expensive than feeding a performance horse in work. It is our duty as horse
owners to make sure we provide them with a good retirement.
5. Do you need help with your aged horse? We
are always here to help with rehoming or information on caring for your horses.
If you have a question please don’t hesitate to contact myself and please
remember that if your circumstances change, think about what’s best for your
horse first.
This article is not a
substitute for professional veterinarian advice
Candy 35 years old Photo by Charmaine Gould
Jet 36 Years old Photo by Charmaine Gould
Mishka 26 years old Photo by Everdream Photography
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Treating arthritis naturally
Equine
degenerative joint disease (arthritis) is the most common lameness problem in
horses and while it is mostly an old age disease arthritis can strike at any
age.
As the
president of Save a Horse Australia Horse Rescue and Sanctuary I have seen and
treated many horses of all ages that have advanced stages of arthritis and
while I would like to save every life I have also had to euthanasia many horses
that were to advanced to treat and their pain couldn’t be managed. While
arthritis cannot be cured, preventive measure can be used and if caught early,
pain can easily be managed so that the horse can live out there days pain free.
What is the process of Arthritis? Arthritis
is a painful degenerative joint disease that can affect horses of all ages but
seem mostly in senior horses. It is the result of chronic joint inflammation
which is the body’s natural way of fixing a problem. The problem normally
starts off as an infection, injury or tissue damage which causes chemicals from
the injured tissues to stimulate pain receptors which then start an impulse to
the central nervous system. The brain then processes the impulse and
establishes that there is a problem in that area so it sends impulses to begin
the immune response. Inflammation cells, which are white blood cells move into
the area and while they do a great job at killing bacteria and eating damaged
tissue they also release chemicals into the surrounding tissue that actually
destroy it. This is where arthritis can form and this is why inflammation is so
destructive and why as horse owners it’s so important to do everything we can
to stop it. Once the inflammation starts and over a period of time the self
feeding cycle results in joint cartilage deterioration, painful joint capsule
thickening and the breakdown of joint fluid, which causes the body to attempt
to heal the damage by developing scar tissue and calcifying bones to decrease
flexibility and over all joint function.
The whole
process is painful, especially as the cartilage is being destroyed and
underlying bone is left unprotected. The chemical released by inflammation
simulates pain which is the body’s way of stopping the horse from using damaged
tissue. This works well for cuts or non arthritic related lameness but
unfortunately in the case of arthritis all this does is cause further breakdown
of the joint due to decreased circulation from inactivity. Arthritis is usually
more painful in the beginning with pain being less intense after the joint has
calcified causing less flexion.
Arthritis management: There are a
number of different ways you can prevent and manage inflammation and support
the structure of the joint. These include: Proper trimming/shoeing, exercise,
balanced diet, joint injections, equissage and responsible breeding however in this
article I will be focusing on supplements and natural herbs which when used in
conjunction with a balanced diet, trimming, equissage and an exercise program
work extremely well. I have never once used joint injections on any rescue
horse and find that with proper management the natural supplements have worked
well enough to keep each horse paddock sound and pain free.
Supplements used for treating and managing
equine Arthritis:
Devils Claw
– Has antiphlogistic and analgesic effects (Inflammation reducing and pain
relieving). It is a natural anti-inflammatory which can be used instead of Bute
to help reduce inflammation and pain. I
give each horse 2 tablespoons daily.
Celery Seeds
– These also have high anti-inflammatory properties and I give each horse 1
tablespoon each day.
Chamomile
Flower – Is a great all purpose herb which helps with tummy upsets, ulcers,
loss of appetite and helps heal common colds, wounds and burns. It is also a
great herb for arthritis with anti-inflammatory and pain relieving properties.
I feed each horse 1 cup daily.
Meadowsweet
– This herb is very much like Chamomile in that it is great for colds and
healing the body. It also has some analgesic properties so is great for
arthritic horses. I feed ½ cup to each horse daily.
Turmeric –
This would have to be one of the best herbs for treating arthritis. It has
potent anti-inflammatory properties that also exert beneficial effects on
cartilage metabolism. This herb is a must when treating arthritis. I feed 1
tablespoon to each horse daily.
Green Lipped
Muscle Powder – This supplement assists with the support of arthritis and is a
great alternative to non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs. It works by
supplying the body with the necessary building blocks to aid in the repair of
cartilage, fluids and connective tissues by helping lubricate and alleviate the
symptoms of sore and stiff joints. I feed each horse 2 tablespoons daily.
MSM &
Glucosamine - Best supplemented together have a number of different uses but
are manly used together to aid in preventing and maintaining horses with
arthritis. I feed each horse 2 tablespoons of MSM and 1 tablespoon of
Glucosamine daily.
Rosehip: Is
another great general purpose herb high in vitamin C and used to help improve
the horses’ immune system and assist with recovery from trauma and tissue
repair. I feed 2 tablespoons to each horse daily.
Hawthorn Berry – This herb is excellent for
increasing circulation which is extremely important for horses with arthritis. I
feed each horse 1 tablespoon daily.
The herbs
and supplements listed above are what I use to treat equine arthritis; it’s
important to consult your vet to get a proper diagnosis and to establish a
treatment that is best for your horse. The herbal treatment can be used in
conjunction with any arthritis treatment that your vet has provided and this
herbal plan can also be used on horses to help prevent and maintain the
progress of equine arthritis. You can’t completely prevent or cure the disease
but you can help your horse be comfortable and with the right treatment you can
slow the process down. Please note that I am not a professional herbalist and
this information is based on what has worked for the many horses I have had
come through the Sanctuary with arthritis. This article is not a substitute for
professional veterinarian advice.
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Equine Gastric Ulceration Syndrome
Numerous studies throughout the world
have proven that stomach ulcers in horses are very common. They reportedly
affect up to 90% of racehorses in training and 60% of competition horses and a
recent study at a pacing stud in NSW revealed that 95% of their horses had
stomach ulcers.
The cause of Gastric Ulcers has
largely been blamed on long periods without food, especially roughage. Horses
are grazing animals; however performance and race horses are often stabled and
fed only 2 large feeds a day with low levels of roughage leaving the horses stomach
empty for long periods. The stomach acid is continuously secreted and may
irritate the stomach lining causing ulcers. So unlike humans, it is not
bacteria which cause gastric ulcers but exposure to stomach acid is thought to
be a major factor.
Grazing horses are less like to have
gastric ulcers because they are constantly eating without any periods of an
empty stomach. When a horse is grazing grass and saliva (which contains
bicarbonate) flow constantly into the stomach, which buffers the stomach acid
and prevents ulcers forming. Ulcers occur mainly in the non-glandular area of
the stomach, along the margo plicatus. The cells in this area are not protected
from the stomach acid because they do not secrete mucus or bicarbonate. The
severity of the ulcers is related to the duration of exposure to the acid and
if they are quite serve they can bleed into the gut causing anemia and low
protein.
Risk factors include stabling your horse
for long periods without grazing and feeding two large meals per day. High
energy feed, intermittent feeding, intensive exercise, racing and transporting.
It is important to remember that horses must continue to eat throughout the
day, when the horse is not eating the stomach is exposed to acid. Feeding grain
increases the secretion of acid but protein can buffer the effect so it’s
important to feed grain and protein together. Lucerne chaff is high in protein
so feeding it with grain will assist in preventing ulcers.
Not all horses with gastric ulcers
will show signs so many do go undiagnosed, however some of the things to look
out for include: decreased appetite – your horse may go off his food slightly,
not clearing up all of his hard feed and due to decreased appetite his coat may
become dull and parts of it may start to fall out. Frequently he will become
sour in his behaviour towards work and his performance may drop. He may colic
one or a number of times, grind his teeth, windsuck and may develop diarrhea.
If the ulcers are severe and bleeding into the gut he will have a lower red
blood cell count and haemoglobin level. The best method of diagnosing gastric
ulcers is to have a blood test, if it indicated severe ulcers you could arrange
having them looked at with an endoscope.
Your vet is the best person to advise
you on a correct treatment plan, as the founder of Save a Horse Australia we
treat all off the track racehorses and emaciated rescue horses with an oral
paste containing omeprazole called Omaguard by Nature Vet. This drug binds the
cells of the stomach lining which produces the acid reducing its production. Omaguard
is by prescription only so consult your vet if you think your horse may have
ulcers. Ulcer healing takes 14-28 days, sometimes longer depending on the
severity of the ulcers, your vet will advise you on a treatment plan. It is
important to remember that if your horse is healing from ulcers its best to
spell him from work until they have healed. Stress can prevent and prolong the
healing process so keep him as relaxed as possible. During treatment decrease
grain and increase roughage, feed smaller meals more frequently and if your
horse has severe ulcers you should provide and iron and blood building
supplement. At Save a Horse Australia we use a supplement called “Blud”.
There are a number of excellent
healing herbs available that will help heal mild cases of gastric ulceration
and we have used many different herbal plans on our rescue horses with great
success. Chamomile, meadowsweet, marshmellow,
slippery elm bark and licorice root are all excellent and work well together.
We also feed protexin probiotic and apple cider vinegar which helps restore gut
flora and encourages saliva the natural protection against gastric acidity.
Always consult a professional equine herbalist before using any herbal plan on
your horse.
As noted earlier ulcers are very
common in horses and we are their biggest enemy due to the management and
lifestyle we place upon our equine friends. The most important thing to
remember is to make sure your horse has access to plenty of roughage,
substituting grass for grassy hay if necessary. If your horse is showing any
symptoms call your vet immediately for a check up, blood test and treatment
plan. This article should not be substituted for professional veterinarian
advice.
Bella
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Equine
Worm Control
There
are a number of different worm infestation symptoms varying from barely
detectable reduction in performance through to severe disease, illness, colic
and in extreme cases even death. Sings of worm infestation can include but are not
limited to, poor growth, weight loss, tail rubbing, scouring, couching, colic
and death.
There
are a number of worms that infest horses; the most important being large red
worms (Large strongyles), small red worms (small strongyles), threadworms and
large round worms with Pinworms, tapeworms and bots being less dangerous.
Small red worms: Also
known as Small Strongyles (cyathostomes) are common and cause direct damage to
the gut wall. It is the small red worm in its immature stages that can encyst
into the wall of the intestine. This is like hibernation as the larvae are not
active and can remain in the intestine wall for months. The problem is that at
this stage the larvae are resistant to anthelmintics (worming pastes) so large
numbers can build up in the gut wall over time. The biggest problem occurs when
these encysted larvae are stimulated to wake up and complete their life cycle
by emerging into the intestine lumen. Huge numbers of cyayhostomes migrate out
of the gut wall causing tremendous damage, resulting in weight loss, illness,
anaemia, colic, diarrhoea and even death. Prevention is difficult due to
resistance from long term inappropriate use of wormers and there are only two
products on the market which can prevent and kill Encysted strongyles.
Large Red Worms: Also
known as large strongyles invade the blood vessels supplying the intestines and can
cause serious damage leading to colic, diarrhoea and even death.
Roundworms: generally only effect
horses 2 years old or younger, they cause intestinal blockages, diarrhoea, and
even respiratory problems.
Pinworms: Adult pin worms lay
their eggs around the horses’ anus causing irritation and the most common
symptom is “tail rubbing”.
Tapeworms: An
adult tapeworm consists of a head that attaches to the intestinal wall with a
set of suckers and a segmented body; each segment contains within it a complete
set of reproductive organs that can produce eggs independently. As the worm
grows, the lower segments separate and their eggs are carried off in the passing
stream of digesting food on their way out of the horse's body. Once on the
ground, the manure is broken down with the help of oribatid mites; the mites
ingest the eggs, which develop into larvae inside their bodies. If the
larvae-carrying mites crawl up onto the grass and are eaten by a grazing horse,
the tapeworm larvae will settle into a new host. Tapeworms can cause colic, weight loss, diarrhoea, gut
rupture and death.
Bots: The adult bot is actually a fly that
lays eggs on the horses coat (mostly legs), these eggs hatch into larvae and
are ingested into the horses stomach, where they can cause ulceration and may
even penetrate the wall of the stomach. Bots are very common in hot climates.
How to tell if your horse has a worm infestation:
The tell tale signs
are: weight loss, dull coat, bloated belly, diarrhoea and colic but prevention
is better than cure and to maintain your horses health its important to
establish a regular worming program and stick to it.
Worm control program: An effective worm control program is
to remove all worms from your horse by using a wormer that will kill everything
including encysted stages remembering that not many of the wormers on the
market actual kill and prevent Encysted stages. You must maintain a worming
program every 6-8 weeks without going over 8 weeks. To prevent resistance you
much change the class of drench you are using every 12 months (not just the
brand but the actual class of drench). Limit reinfestation by removing manure,
cleaning paddocks and you could even monitor worm burdens by conducting worm
tests.
Our Worming program: As the president of Save a Horse
Australia Rescue and Sanctuary, worm infestation is something we see regularly
with surrendered and slaughter bound horses. The worming program that I use is
one that has worked well for us over the years and we make sure that all new
owners are aware of worming scheduled for each horse adopted. On arrival we put
all horses on a 5 day course of Panacur 100 (10ml to 100kg body weight),
panacur’s active ingredient is Fenbendazole however it doesn’t cover encysted
stages, threadworm, tapeworms or bots so 1 week later we drench the horse with
Equest Plus Tape Long Acting (Active ingredient is Moxidectin Praziquantel).
This dewormer is the only one on the market (that I am aware of) which kills
everything including encysted stages. It is always important to use a less
evasive wormer such as panacur 100 first before using Equest on a horse which
has a sever case of worm infestation to prevent colic.
In conclusion: Keeping your horse worm free is an
important part of horse husbandry and with horses only needing to be drenched
every 6-8 weeks there are no excuses for not maintaining your horses worm
control program. If you suspect your horse has a worm infestation and the
drench you are using isn’t working its best to call your vet for a check up to
establish the problem.
Please note
that this article is not a substitute for professional veterinarian advice.
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Sale horses - Rescuing or prolonging suffering?
Buying horses from the “penned” or for another word “dogger”
section of the local horse sales has become increasing popular. Kind hearted
people who want to make a difference to a horses life or who want to do
something to make themselves feel like they are doing their part to help
society, but in most cases people don’t know what they are getting themselves
into and end up with a problem that will either cost them a fortune to fix,
can’t be fixed or is beyond their experience to fix. What then happens to that
horse? It will either end up back through the sales or the kind hearted people
who rescued it will call on a rescue organisation to help pick up the pieces.
Im not suggesting that “rescuing” a horse from the dogger
pens is a bad idea, we rescue horses from there when we have room however you
must be experienced enough to know what you are doing or indirectly you are
actually prolonging that horses misery. Let me explain.
Dogger horses – also
known as penned horses or meat horses: 90% of the time dogger horses in the
penned section at horse sales are there for a reason whether it is physical,
emotional, health issues or behavioural issues. At the sales it’s very
important to understand that the horse you buy could have a number of issues
which you need to be willing to establish, work through and fix properly before
moving that horse into a new home. Buying the actual horse from the yards is
just the beginning and the most inexpensive part of rescuing the horse.
The process after the sales:
1. Most
of the horses sold through the penned section haven’t been looked after so it’s
very important to have a veterinarian check your new horse immediately on
getting him home. The vet will be able to assess his general health and let you
know if there are any underlying health issues. It’s also advised to have some
blood test done to establish what your new horse is deficient in and to assess
the function of his organs.
2. Have
your new horse’s teeth done immediately on arrival as well. This will help
avoid colic and your horse will have a better chance of gaining weight.
3. Have
a farrier assess your horses feet to trim them up and provide corrective
shoeing if its required. Laminitis is one of the number 1 reasons why horses
end up in the dogger pens so make sure you understand laminitis and its
treatment before buying your penned horse.
4. Feeding
your new horses is something that you must learn about before buying your
penned horse. Neglected, abused, sick, lamanitic, injured horses all need
specialised diets and the main mistake that people make when “rescuing” a horse
from the sales is that it will be ok on grass only. The old saying “you are
what you eat” rings true for not only humans but for all animals and as I have
said before these horses haven’t been looked after. Vitamin and mineral
deficiencies are evident in all penned horses and its very important to have
them on a balanced diet right from the start.
5. Worming
your new horse should also be done immediately on his arrival home and again 2
weeks later to ensure all worms have been killed. A blood test should then be
done to make sure your horse isn’t bearing a parasite burden.
6. Chiropractic
appointments are just as important as teeth, vet check, worming and feet. Many
people say “why do horses need a chiropractor”. Horses were never designed for
riding. They were never designed for dressage, jumping with an object on their
backs or any of the disciplines we use them for. Horses also have falls in
paddocks, riding injuries and their skeletal structure can move causing pain
and discomfort. This is the main cause for a badly behaving horse and instead
of the owner trying to find the source of the bad behaviour / pain they are
very fast to send the horse through the sales deeming it dangerous. Having a
chiropractor assess your horse’s skeletal systems is just as important as having
him assessed by the vet.
7. Assessing
your horse under saddle needs to be done by a very experienced rider no matter
how quiet the horse seems on the ground. You must understand that old buck
jumpers get sold through the sales and these horses can be as quiet as kid’s
horses to handle. I always advise sending your new horse away to a reputable
trainer for a week before getting on yourself. This will establish any
behavioural issues the horse might have without you or your children getting
hurt. Trainers specialise in being able to identify problems and fixing them.
The process we take at Save a Horse Australia:
1. On
arrival we have one of our team of veterinarians assess the horse and take
bloods.
2. Normally
at the same time as the vet check we will have the horses’ teeth done. This
will depend on the horses’ condition. If it is in an emaciated condition we
will wait about 2-3 weeks because we don’t want to put too much strain on the
horses organs with the sedative. While
waiting for the 2-3 weeks the horse is fed 4 small meals per day of mushed up
gumnuts and chaff with no hay.
3. We
have our farrier trim the horses feet immediately and if needed have x-rays
done before corrective shoeing. All good corrective farriers will ask for xrays
before correctively shoeing a horse. They need to know where the pedal bone is
sitting to effectively shoe the horse correctly.
4. Our
feeding program will depend on each horse’s age, breed, height and condition.
We feed Mitavite products with Gumnuts being the most popular. Please feel free
to email me if you would like some help with a feeding program for your horse.
5. Our
worming program is a little different from most but it’s thorough and
effective. We put our horses on a 5 day course of panacur 100 (dose will vary
depending on horse). Then we worm with an all wormed 14 days after the last
panacur dose.
6. Our
horses are all assess by a Chiropractor immediately on arrival and again on the
chiropractors advice. We also provide red light therapy and equassage to all
horses with skeletal issues.
1. Aged
horses with arthritis – it seems the sales are an easy option for people to
sell their old unwanted arthritic horses.
2. Laminitis
– Laminitis can be hard to detect early for the inexperienced person and when
left to long can take years to repair. It’s also very expensive, painful and
time consuming.
3. Behavioural
problems – mostly caused by bad handling / riding and/or pain.
4. Neglect,
abuse and lack of care – long hooves, emaciated, and generally neglected.
Conclusion: It is great that people are
becoming aware of the dogger sales and are rescuing horse’s from a most certain
death at the knackery but you must ask yourself if you are able to afford the
care and treatment that this horse will need. If you can rescue it but you
can’t provide the ongoing care then are you really rescuing it? Or prolonging
its suffering? As the president of Save
a Horse Australia I have seen all too often well intended people rescuing a horse
but then realising that they can’t provide all needed treatment. The horse then
sits in the paddock suffering until it’s either returned to the sales or sold
to some unsuspecting person or surrendered to a rescue centre. If you want to
rescue a horse then consider adopting one who has already been rescued by a
registered charity, this give the organisation room to rescue another one
properly. It does cost on average $1500 in the first week of rescuing a dogger
horse – buying the horse, vet, feet, teeth, worming, chiro, feed and much more
depending on the care needed and our adoption fee is only $300 under a life
time adoption contract. Your new horse will be health, wormed and vaccinated
ready for a life time of love.
Happy
Rescuing!
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Grey Horse Melanoma
Eventually
80% of all grey horses will develop a melanoma; the good news is that they are
very rarely fatal. 99% of all grey horse melanomas are benign but this doesn’t
mean that they will not turn malignant in time, however most horses will die of
old ages before dying as a direct result of the melanoma itself. A study
conducted by the University of Queensland suggest that most grey horses have
heavily pigmented internal lesions which show signs of non malignancy because
they appear to occur along set paths rather than spreading to other parts of the
horse including vital organs and they also very rarely affected the horse
causing death. The research suggest that the slow growing masses were caused by
hair follicles that lost their ability to produce pigment or to pass it onto
growing hair, caused by age and changes in the cells; that pigment building up
into the grey horse melanoma ( a tumour of the melanocyte cell). In short,
melanoma is a cancer that develops in the melanin cells of the skin, melanin
being the pigment that makes some skin darker than others and all though horses
of any colour can get a melanoma; they are most common in grey horses. The bad
news is that melanoma in non-grey horses are mostly malignant and potentially
aggressive.
Melanomas
can he hard, soft, singular or in clusters. They are mostly found around the
horse’s anus and the underside of the tail, around the sheath, on the head and
ears, or around the parotid gland and around the throatlatch area. They can
also be found on the legs and girth area. The rate of growth will depend on
each horse with some growing quickly and others grow very slow.
If the tumour is small and not causing the horse any problems, they are best left alone and surgically removing it can activate the cells which can increase the likely hood of the tumour regrowing bigger and more aggressive than before surgery. Many small melanoma’s can hang around for years not changing or growing very slowly and its best to monitor your horse to check for frequent changes in size, shape and appearance.
If your horse has a melanoma which does need treatment there are a number of different options.
Surgery: should only be considered where the mass is less than 3cm in diameter and in an area which isn’t close to vital nerves and vessels. Larger masses can be extremely problematic because they commonly reoccur more aggressive and in clusters which can cause a real mess.
Cryotherapy: This is freezing with liquid nitrogen. In most cases a large part of the mass is surgically removed first and then the rest frozen two to three times. This procedure does need repeating to keep the tumour to a manageable size.
Cimetidine Therapy: As the founder of Save a Horse Australia Horse Rescue and Sanctuary I have seen many grey horses with melanoma and this is the treatment that we prefer. It is one of the most promising advances in the treatment for grey horse melanoma in the world. It was originally used as a human anti-ulcer drug called Tagament. Cimetidine provides the greatest benefit to horses with melanoma’s which are actively increasing in size and number. It doesn’t have much benefit to slow growing masses. The drug treats the melanoma by modifying the portion of the immune system that allows melanomas to grow unchecked and stimulates the cell mediation immune response needed to fight the tumour.
Currently there isn’t any way of knowing what horses will respond to the drug and what horse won’t. A good response to treatment is typically assessed by a decrease of approximately 50% in the size and number of the melanomas with no further progression of the grey horse disease for several years. Changes in the size and number of the melanomas during treatment should occur after 2 – 7 weeks of treatment. The good news is that the drug isn’t overly expensive and can be purchased through any veterinarian.
Vaccination: There is research continuing in the USA for the development of a tissue based vaccine made from the horses own tumour cells which will combat the melanoma and clinical studies have seen success for melanomas on the face, body and legs but masses on the tail sheath and along the jugular have not seen the same success. I’m not sure when or if this vaccination will be available in Australia.
If your horse has grey horse melanomas it is extremely important to keep him as healthy as possible taking on a natural diet and supplement plan, this will help maintain a strong immune system. Feeding your horse as natural as possible is the most important factor which can prove quite difficult at times due to horses needing a large grazing area with access to different plants growing on different soils. In a paddocked environment it is important to supplement with a good quality herbal vitamin and mineral supplement. Please note that this is different from commercial vitamin and mineral supplements and its best to contact your local equine herbal suppler for a natural alternative. Yatala Produce in Yatala is an herbal suppler and can help with a natural herbal blend for your horse.
Melanomas are not a death sentence for your horse and with the correct management you will have your equine friend with you for a very long time with the lumps causing no problems; however they can sit dormant for years and without warning can turn malignant. Always have your horse assessed by a professional veterinarian. This article is not a substitute for professional veterinarian advice.
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Head Shaking Syndrome
Head shaking syndrome is one of the most mysterious and
frustrating problems in horses. There are a small number of articles published
on the internet that describe basic head shaking; however the list of published
veterinary literature is not exhaustive. After accepting a rescue horse showing
signs of chronic head shaking syndrome I started researching what it is and the
treatment available. Many internet articles gave numerous (about 50) causes for
head shaking which included chiropractic issues, poorly fitting tack, insects,
sunlight, allergies, vaccinations and so on and while they were quick to point
out the causes they didn’t have any information on treatment or cure.
What is head shaking
syndrome? All horses will shake their head at one point or another mostly
horizontally, but horses showing symptoms of head shaking syndrome shake their
head vertically in a repetitive non voluntary manner. This motion is sudden and
violent; an intense flick of the nose, head and in some cases the neck. The
symptoms of head shaking include but are not limited to vertical head shaking,
snorting, sneezing and rubbing their face on fences, walls and their legs.
Veterinarians have linked head shaking to irritation or
inflammation of the trigeminal nerve which runs from the back of the head,
around the ears, along both sides of the face and stops in the nose / muzzle.
They liken the sensation to an electric shock type impulse which is painful
therefore causing the horses head too violently and involuntarily jerk
vertically and in extreme cases causing the horse to hit its head trying to
avoid the pain. Many experts say that Equine Head Shaking Syndrome is a very
similar condition to Trigeminal Neuralgia in people, this condition is also
called suicide syndrome and is described as the most painful condition known
resulting in many people taking their own lives.
There are universities in the UK and the USA who have begun
systematic research into head shaking syndrome however it’s still poorly understood.
What we do know is that there isn’t one single cause, horses can start head
shaking and then go into remission before starting again and head shaking can
be seasonal.
What is causing your
horse’s head shaking? First you will need to establish whether your horses
head shaking is neurotic behaviour or an expression to resistance to training. Physical
induced head shaking is different from behavioural head shaking and should be
handled differently. It is an uncontrollable head shake in response to pain and
doesn’t vary whether the horse is under saddle or not. It looks like the horse
is having a massive allergy attack and in severe cases the horse will become
unrideable, unmanageable and even dangerous. At this point you should call your
vet to make a diagnosis and to rule out other causes and suggest a treatment
plan. You will need to establish whether your tack might be causing your horse
physical pain. Have a professional saddle fitter come out and inspect your
tack. If your horse is still head shaking than check to see if he improved if
you keep him indoors and then take him out into the sun again. If this causes
him to start head shaking than your horse might be a photic head shaker. Keep a
diary of your horse’s behaviour and always consult your veterinarian for
advice.
Treatment: Currently
there is no cure for head shaking and in some cases can lay dormant in a horse
for years. Horses can even go into remission with no sign of head shaking and
then one day it will come back again. There are a number of things you can do
to make your horse more comfortable once you establish the cause.
UV protection face mask with the full nose
flap can help to shade your horse from bright lights and protect his nose from
dust and insects. It is best left on 24/7 in spring and summer but make sure
your horse is in a safe paddock or stall where he can’t run into fences or hurt
himself.
Herbal
treatment targeting respiratory allergies, immune problems and calming herbs
can help reduce the symptoms and its best to consult a professional equine
herbalist for advice. Homeopathic treatment can also help and includes
injections, small pills and drops which are put into the horses feed. As the
founder of Save a Horse Australia Horse Rescue and Sanctuary I have used herbal
treatments and homeopathic treatments (heal with ease) with great success. I
also suggest physical treatments such as chiropractic, bowen therapy,
myofuntional therapy, equivibe sessions or any other kind of physical therapy.
Save a Horse Australia Horse Rescue and
Sanctuary Head Shakers: Brandy was surrendered with a chronic skin
condition and was a head shaker. Her symptoms were not manageable and she
became a danger to herself and the people handling her. Brandy’s head shaking
was established to be a neurological defect and during an attack she would
panic and run into things causing herself some horrific injuries. She was
euthanized after 11 months of treatment.
Mishka was
surrendered in winter without showing any signs of head shaking but in spring
and after one of the new rescue horses stressed her by chasing her around she
started to develop mild symptoms. It was a process of elimination but after a
chiropractic session, myofunctional therapy and a vet appointment it was
established that Mishka was a photic head shaker. She now has a UV fly mask
with a nose flap on all of the time and her symptoms have stopped.
No two
horses are the same in their cause and symptoms and head shaking should always
be assessed by a professional veterinarian first and foremost before trying the
process of elimination to establish what will work for your horse and what
wont. If you are going to go down the track of consulting natural therapist
make sure they are also professionally qualified. This article is not a
substitute for qualified veterinary advice.
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Old doesn’t mean poor
As the founder of Save a Horse Australia Horse Rescue and
Sanctuary I often see people struggling with their aged horse’s weight and a
large number of the horses surrendered to us are over 15 years old, mostly in
poor condition. It is a myth that all aged horses will lose top line and once it
has been lost it can’t be regained. With the correct care and feeding regime
aged horses can maintain their body weight and if they are in poor condition,
can gain weight again and live a happy healthy retirement.
As a horse ages it becomes more susceptible to arthritis,
anaemia, deficiencies, respiratory conditions and skin conditions and once a
horse gets to its mid teens it suffers from reduced salivation and its
digestive system slows down reducing the
ability to absorb nutrients. When a
horse is not absorbing important nutrients, its immune system will not be
strong enough to fight off infection and illness and the animal will be more
susceptible to falling ill and long recovery periods.
The first and foremost thing to remember when caring for an
aged horse is to have its teeth checked by a veterinarian or equine dentist
ever 6 months. This will help identify any issues with your horses’ teeth that
may prevent him for grazing and chewing his food properly. A full blood test
isn’t expensive costing around $100 depending on your vet and is worth doing
every 12 months to identify any underlying issues with your old horse and it
will also establish if your horse is suffering from any deficiencies or organ
failure. If there are any abnormalities found your vet will be able to help you
with medication or supplements.
Due to the change in a horse digestive system from its mid
teens, it’s best not to feed raw whole grain. It is not well digested in the
small intestine and can cause fermenting, gas, heat and Ammonia in the caecum.
This can cause your horse to lose appetite, develop diarrhoea, laminits, cause
colic and even death. There are a number of excellent extruded pellet products
on the market which are formulated for older horses to aid in easy digestion
and provide adequate vitamin and mineral intake. We use a pellet made by Mitavite
called Gumnuts, it’s an extremely good product for older horses (15 years+). Older
horses need a diet high in digestible fibre and high in oils which also has a
high fat content. Cold pressed canola oil is the best for older horses with a
balance of 10% omega 3 fatty acids, 20% omega 6 fatty acids and omega 9 fatty
acids. Omega 3 – 6 are essential for tissue function, rheumatoid arthritis,
vision, healthy heart function and other inflammatory diseases.
Older horses also need a diet higher in protein, but it’s
important not to over feed protein as this can lead to scouring. Its best to
monitor your horse’s manure and if it is a little loose than reduce the amount
of protein and oil until it is forming properly. Slippery Elm Bark is good for
scouring (1 – 2 tablespoons per day). A full fat soy meal such as Soygize is an
excellent source of protein and has been formulated as a supplement to help
improve top line in older horses, it contains 39% protein so only a small
amount is needed to be beneficial. Copra Meal is another high protein
supplement but only contains 20% crude protein.
In aged horses, vitamin B and C are less able to be
synthesized and it is important to make sure that your horse is getting
adequate supplements. Vitamin C is naturally found in Rose Hip Herb and is a
better form than a commercial supplement. Vitamin B group in the form of brewer’s
yeast and would also help with digestion.
You will find that your old horse may have trouble grazing
due to broken or missing teeth so it’s important to make sure you feed enough
roughage to compensate (along with pellets, full fat soy and supplements).
Chaff is best because it’s easier to chew and swallow and to make it easier and
more enjoyable wet it down feeding over 2 – 3 meals per day. It’s also
beneficial to give your horse a good clean out with physillium husks once every
1 – 2 months. One cup for 4 days is all that is needed and this will clean any
sand out of his digestive system, but remember not to feed it every day because
the horses system will develop an acid that will digest the husks if it is feed
everyday and it will lose its benefit of cleaning the system.
At Save a Horse Australia Horse Rescue and Sanctuary we have
had many very poor aged horses come through our doors and with the right
healing and feeding program each horse has gained weight, become healthy and
many have been re-homed to loving retirement homes, most of these horses in
their late 20’s and early 30’s. We use a number of different herbs to help aid
in the healing process including Chamomile, Rose Hip, Slippery Elm, and
marshmellow. All of these herbs are soft on the horses’ stomach aiding in
digestion and general well being of the horse.
Please note that it is important to have a full blood test
done to rule out kidney or liver failure before trying to put weight on an
underweight aged horse because if your horse does have kidney or liver failure
you will need a completely different diet. Consult your vet for information.
An old horses doesn’t mean a poor horse and with the correct
feed and medical care you will help your horse live a full, happy retirement
with the love and attention he deserves.
If you have any questions or would like some help or advice
on looking after your old horse please feel free to email me Amanda@saveahorse.org.au
Mickey June 2013
8 weeks later - Mickey is 30+ years with no teeth
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Spring Time Laminitis
Did you know that after
colic laminitis and founder is the second biggest killer of horses in
Australia?
Springtime cold nights and
warm days can drive sugar and starch levels in growing grass to extremely high
levels with the highest sugar and starch content during bright sunlight so it’s
best to avoid allowing your horse to graze when the sun is out. Locking your
horse up during the day and allowing some grazing at night or grazing on cloudy
rainy days will help protect your horse from feed related laminitis. It is
important to remember that when locking your horse or pony up you will need to
feed a low GI diet high in fiber and you should never starve a horse with
laminitis contrary to popular belief. Laminitis causes damage to the hoof and
your horse will need a number of vitamins and minerals to help repair that
damage, including protein, calcium, zinc, biotin, cooper and magnesium. An
excellent produce containing biotin, zinc and magnesium is called “retread” by
nature vet and we have used it on our rescue horses with great success. Remember
that when feeding zinc you must also feed a balanced ratio of copper because to
much zinc can interfere with copper causing a deficiency and to much copper can
cause a zinc deficiency. The recommended ratio of copper to zinc is 1:3, so if
your horse is getting 600mg of zinc per day then the copper amount needed is
200mg.
Calcium and protein are
both found in Lucerne so it’s important not to cut Lucerne out of the horses’
diet and soaking hay overnight will reduce the sugar and starch content. Dolomite
is also an excellent magnesium and calcium supplement.
Other symptoms include
depression, trembling, anxiety, sweating, high temperature and increased heart
rate.
Heart-bar
shoes are excellent in acute cases. They reduce sole pressure and help limit
pedal bone rotation but it’s extremely important that they are made especially
for your horses hooves because an improperly fitted shoe will aggravate the
hoof causing pain. Contact a proper corrective farrier who makes his shoes from
scratch to fit heart-bar shoes on your horse. At Save a Horse Australia Horse
Rescue and Sanctuary we use John Whitely and Tim Heeb.
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